TRAVEL

The 5 best Oregon wilderness areas for backpacking

Zach Urness
Statesman Journal
A view across the Kalmiopsis WIlderness from Vulcan Lake Trail.

Fifty years ago on Sept. 3, Lyndon Johnson signed into law a bill that encouraged getting lost in the wild.

Not lost in the literal sense, of course, but of losing the trappings of civilization in forest and mountains where no buildings, or roads, or marks of permanent human habitation can be found.

"A wilderness, in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain," reads the Wilderness Act of 1964.

Oregon and its citizens have taken that idea of wilderness seriously. A whopping 47 wilderness areas populate every corner of its landscape. Here are my top five favorite wilderness areas for getting utterly, and completely, lost.

Honorable mention: Kalmiopsis Wilderness

In the summer of 2002, the Biscuit Fire roared across this landscape like a biblical plague, becoming a nationwide story while torching almost 500,000 acres in Southern Oregon and Northern California.

Almost 12 years later, evidence of Oregon's third-largest wildfire marks the landscape. Incinerated trees and torched mountainsides give driving into the canyon an almost eerie feeling.

But the Kalmiopsis Wilderness, home to one of the rarest flowers on earth of the same name, is also a place to watch nature's renewal and explore incredible oases hidden a long way from the hoards of people you'll find in wilderness areas higher on this list.

Thanks to the efforts of the Siskiyou Mountain Club and other volunteers, which have undertaken the task of clearing the incredible amount of downed trees caused by the fire, you can backpack into the depths of this Kalmiopsis along the Illinois River Trail (28 miles) and the recently completed Trans-Kalmiopsis Route (26 miles).

Favorite routes: Illinois River Trail

Best time to backpack: Spring and autumn (it gets very hot in mid-summer)

5: Sky Lakes Wilderness

From the 9,496-foot summit of Mount McLoughlin, the highest point in Southern Oregon, the Sky Lakes Wilderness spreads out like a collection of blue footprints in the forest below.

The more than 85 lakes in this wilderness area northeast of Medford come in sizes both large and small. They are nestled below sheer cliffs and in wildflower valleys, and together, they constitute the most popular area for backpacking in the southern Cascades.

July and August bring the largest crowds to the Sky Lakes, but between the roving gangs of mosquitoes and sometimes boiling temperatures, this isn't always the most enjoyable time of year.

By the beginning of September, however, the Sky Lakes hits its stride. The mosquitoes disappear as quickly as the crowds after Labor Day, and backpackers can wander through glacier-carved basins and across high mountain peaks in near solitude until, typically, mid-October.

Many trails access into the wilderness' three main basins — Sky Lakes, Seven Lakes and Blue Canyon. All three are worthwhile. Blue Canyon is the easiest, the Sky Lakes are a bit more challenging and Seven Lakes provide the greatest adventure.

Best time to visit: Late August, September, early October

Favorite routes: Seven Lakes and Devil's Peak Loop; Upper Sky Lakes Basin

4: Mount Jefferson Wilderness

Three of the most beautiful places in the Central Cascades can be found in this popular wilderness northeast of Salem and Detroit.

At the head of the pack is Jefferson Park, a spectacular alpine glen of wildflowers and lakes at the base of Oregon's second-tallest mountain. Three trailheads access this wonderland including Whitewater Trailhead (easiest), Breitenbush Trailhead (most scenic) and South Breitenbush Trailhead (toughest but least people).

Other favorites in the wilderness include the easy-to-reach Pamelia Lake — which requires a permit — and the more challenging Hunts Cove. Finally, beautiful Canyon Creek Meadows is often referenced as one of the state's best hikes for children.

Best time to visit: Mid to late summer

Favorite routes: Jefferson Park via Breitenbush Trailhead

3: Three Sisters Wilderness

The most scenic wilderness in Oregon, which surrounds this trio of 10,000-foot volcanoes, is also the most crowded.

But don't let that discourage you from coming to this incredible, words-can-barely-describe-it, location that straddles the Cascades and can be reached from both Bend (going west) or Eugene (going east). The best time to visit is mid-week.

The most crowded areas include the Obsidian Limited Entry Area, on the west side, where you can pick up a permit via the McKenzie River Ranger District. The trail to the summit of South Sister, along with the Green Lakes and Moraine Lake area, is likewise spectacular and quite busy.

To escape the crowds, strap on your backpack and head for the deeper wilds in places like Park Meadow and Chambers Lake, along with the countless places in between.

2: Strawberry Mountain Wilderness

The Strawberry Mountain Wilderness is a place that, for many Oregonians, sits just beyond reach.

Many have heard of it, some dream of traveling there, yet surprisingly, few make the five-hour trip over the mountains and through the desert to John Day and Prairie City.

This diamond in the rough is wrapped in craggy peaks and glacier-carved valleys and home to a 69,350-acre wilderness of blue lakes, pine forest and alpine meadows speckled with — you guessed it — wild strawberries.

Mountain goats roam the high country, and nine different streams begin here, their headwaters tumbling down waterfalls and creeks, from the summit of 9,038-foot Strawberry Mountain to the sun-baked desert below.

By connecting a few roads, it's possible to backpack 14.5 miles over mountain passes and down into glacial valleys during a wild and beautiful loop that begins at Roads End Trailhead and ends at the same place.

The loop will bring you through the wilderness' heart — Strawberry Lake — and past gems like Strawberry Falls, Little Strawberry Lake and to the 9,042 foot summit of Strawberry Mountain.

Best time to visit: Late June to September

Favorite route: Wilderness loop that begins and ends at Roads End Trailhead

1: Eagle Cap Wilderness

The titanic Wallowa Mountains rise above northeastern Oregon in dramatic splendor and feature the state's largest — and best — place to get lost in the wilderness.

Home to 17 mountains that eclipse 9,000 feet and derived from the Nez Perce word for "land of running waters," the Eagle Cap features 359,991 acres of alpine peaks, meadows and lakes in the heart of what's known as the Oregon Alps.

The size of this wilderness means attempting to spotlight just a few places would be an exercise in futility.

The Wallowa Lake Trailhead — just past Wallowa Lake State Park east of Joseph — is the most popular access point and leads to famous places like Ice Lake and the Lakes Basin. More remote areas within the Eagle Cap include Hurricane Creek, Chimney and Steamboat lakes, along with many, many others.

Best time to visit: July to September

Favorite route: Ice Lake and the Matterhorn

Zach Urness has been an outdoors writer, photographer and videographer in Oregon for six years. He is the author of the book "Hiking Southern Oregon" and can be reached at zurness@StatesmanJournal.com or (503) 399-6801. Find him on Facebook at Zach's Oregon Outdoors or @ZachsORoutdoors on Twitter.