NEWS

Pendleton poses challenges for growing grapes

GEORGE PLAVEN
East Oregonian

PENDLETON — Like a lot of farmland surrounding Pendleton, Duff Ranches is dominated by dryland wheat fields that stretch over the vast, rolling countryside.

Top: Eola Hills Wine Cellars began harvesting Chardonnay grapes from their Wolf Hill Vineyard for use in sparkling wine on Wednesday west of Salem.

About 10 years ago, Jim Duff decided to try something different at the family farm off Highway 11. His son's father-in-law is the founder and general manager of Eola Hills Winery near Salem, and Duff figured he could grow a few acres of wine grapes to sell to Eola Hills and, perhaps, establish a new blend.

Duff planted four different varieties of grapes, including Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. He spent two years completing viticulture classes at Walla Walla Community College to learn about different plants and how to control diseases.

Despite his preparation, the experiment didn't end well.

Fast Food: Wine drama and dynamic dinners

"We knew it was going to be a gamble," Duff said. "The vines grew really well, but never any fruit."

After five years and $60,000 spent, Duff decided to give up on grapevines. The biggest problem, he said, was untimely spring frost — whenever the vines started to grow buds, a hard frost would come along and wipe out the grapes before he could harvest.

"It's very humbling," Duff said. "You work so hard trying to get something to grow. In one night, it's over."

A successful vineyard requires the right combination of climate and environmental factors, collectively referred to as "terroir." Walla Walla has it. Milton-Freewater has it. Echo has it. Pendleton, it seems, is right on the edge.

Evaluating potential

Kevin Pogue, professor of geology at Whitman College in Walla Walla and an expert on wine grape production, said he has done site evaluations for two or three groups of people around Pendleton to determine the potential for growing vineyards.

With just 12-17 inches of annual rainfall, Pogue said anyone growing wine grapes in the area would first need access to irrigation water. He also advises farmers to plant vineyards on top of hills, as opposed to valleys where cold air can become trapped.

Jackson Family Wines buys WillaKenzie Estate

"On either end of the growing season, you have a frost risk," Pogue said. "It would kill your fruit for that year."

Every vineyard in the Columbia Basin is subject to frost and freezes, Pogue said. But the challenge of accumulating enough warm days for the grapes to ripen is even steeper in Pendleton.

"In an average year, you would always be holding your breath," Pogue said.

One thing Pendleton does have, Pogue said, is the right soils. He is particularly excited about the rocky, gravelly soil found near McKay Creek — similar to the rocky, gravelly soil that now distinguishes The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater.

"I think the soil would be fabulous for growing wine grapes," he said.

Pogue, who owns his own vineyard consulting company called VinTerra, said he would like to see someone grow wine grapes in Pendleton, but admits it wouldn't be easy.

"In some years, you could do it no problem. In some years, it would be a disaster, and in most years, you would be anxious all the time," he said.

A significant investment

Apart from shaky weather, starting a vineyard is also a considerable investment. Pogue said it takes as much as $20,000 to $30,000 per acre just to get started, including the cost of planting and installing irrigation systems.

From there, the first grapes won't be harvested for three years. It could take up to a decade before a farmer sees any profit, Pogue said.

"You look into the economics of it, and it's a daunting challenge," he said. "You aren't going to be making money for a long time."

Steve Robertson, who owns SJR Vineyard in The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, said time and labor add another layer of challenge.

"There's no getting away from human beings tending the rows in the middle of wine season," Robertson said. "Most of that is handwork."

It takes a long-range vision and dedication to make it in the wine business, Robertson said. For him, growing grapes is a lifestyle.

"There's a lot of opportunity for creativity and variance," he said. "That excites a lot of people."

Robertson said he believes there are excellent spots to grow grapevines around Pendleton, but it will take those first pioneering steps to establish the region.

"If the quality is there, the market is there," he said.

Pioneering steps

Clive Kaiser, extension horticulturist with Oregon State University in Milton-Freewater, said he can only think of two vineyards attempted in Pendleton over the last decade, including Duff's. The other was located near Blue Mountain Community College, and ran into issues with a type of weed killer that drifted over from a neighboring wheat field.

The chemical, known as 2,4-D, can't be used in the Walla Walla AVA between April 1 and Oct. 31. However, Kaiser said there is no such moratorium in Pendleton.

"The wheat farmers use it extensively," he said. "It's those challenges that are really going to make Pendleton a barrier."

Kaiser said he believes the lack of early success might deter other growers from giving it a try, but additional technology has increased the potential for progress.

As for Duff, his stepson Bob Rosselle now operates Duff Ranches, where the wheat fields take up most of his time. Duff did transplant some of the grapevines to his home in Pendleton, where he said they grow much better than they did on the farm.

Duff said he was able to recoup some of the money he put into his vineyard by selling equipment, but overall the venture was a loss. If he been able to keep it going, he said Eola Hills would have paid $1,500 per ton of grapes at 2-3 tons per acre. Given the recent sagging wheat prices, he said wine grapes could be a tempting alternative.

Duff said there's no question vines will grow in Pendleton — in fact, they'll grow on a farmer's worst ground, he said. But whether it can be profitable is yet to be seen.

"You're not in control as much as you think you are," he said.

___

Information from: East Oregonian, http://www.eastoregonian.com