Raising the Bar: Apples at the core of 1859 Cider Co.
The less-than-skinny: This alley-side cider mill and taproom started serving craft cider in July 2016, and its modest selection shows talent and meticulous detail.
1859’s ownership team and power couple, Patricia and Dan Fox, pick their distinctive varieties from 12th Street trees and heirloom orchards to give them the Oregon white wine treatment. The two winemakers ferment "mostly organic" apples in small batches for several months, compared with the average hard cider's two weeks. That way, they let the ciders bloom the way a wine would. The resulting cider highlights the varieties' subtleties without the blanketing sweetness of added sugar.
"People make cider like beer," Patricia Fox explained, sitting at a round table in the middle of her tap-room-meets-cidery. "We would talk to other cider makers and ask, 'What goes into your ciders?' They would say, 'Apples.' If you went into a winery, asked 'What's in your red blend?' and they answered, 'Grapes,' that would be unacceptable." The Foxes think varieties are important when describing the ciders. They use Roman Beauty, as well as Winesap and Manchurian crab apples.
1859 isn’t your rowdy sports bar or sloshy pub: The intimate spot bridges the gap between vineyard tasting room and tap house, creating a haven for the serious cider enthusiast or low-key crowd looking to unwind.
This backstreet cidery is hard to find, but real treasures tend to be.
What to sip: All five of 1859's ciders take on the sophistication of the Willamette Valley’s great vineyards. The drier ciders, like the 1859 Limited Release Bone Dry, recalls the hint of lemon found occasionally in a chardonnay and floral notes similar to a sparkling white. The 1859 Limited Release Heirloom Sweet is perfect for the Riesling fan. This cider lives up to the name, but not cloyingly so.
Try a flight, served in 3.5-ounce glasses in a piece of North Santiam or Little North Fork driftwood, and find your favorite — Cherrian’s Pick tends to please sweet and dry lovers alike, with the mild note of holiday spice and tart cherry that's perfect for incoming fall. If you're not a cider fan, 1859 cycles out Salem brewery beers and a Dallas company's craft soda.
Best bites: At the moment, the only snack on the menu is a Willamette Valley cheese plate. This selection of six cheeses provide unique takes on favorites like smoked cheddar and Asiago. Willamette Valley Cheese Co. dramatically ages its selections, so every cheese — even the typically mild ones like havarti cheese or Gouda — taste sharp and poignant. The Foxes picked each cheese specifically to pair with their ciders, so don’t expect crackers or fruit to come with it. Your apple is in your glass.
What you’ll see: The 1859 team redesigned a shell of a space with far-from-ornate decoration and an exposed "crush pad" in the back. They sourced wooden touches from barns and distillery floors to match their minimalist aesthetic.
At the bar, Zarrah Buitron pours 13.5-ounce glasses of golden brews. A round table in the center of the taproom attracts after-work crowds. Women in maxi-skirts and men in University of Oregon caps flipped backward catch up over pints on a Friday night. On sunny days, couples sit outside under umbrella-covered tables. The Foxes pride themselves on their diverse clientele, with an even breakdown of men and women as well as younger and older demographics.
What you’ll hear: 1859 doesn’t tend to get too rowdy, but weekend crowds tend to chat loudly. Music is far from unobtrusive.
What you’ll do: If you sit along the far wall, tables hide decks of cards for drinking games or mean rounds of Hearts. At 7:30 p.m. on Sundays, the taproom clears out to welcome $5 salsa classes. Insiders will learn about the occasional game night or industry meetup.
What you'll spend: You'll never spend more than $10 on a single pour. Cider glasses range from $6 to $8.50, with a tasting flight of five ciders for $10.
Tap tips: Good things are coming up at 1859, including a strawberry cider to launch by October and a 500 ml bottled cider to hit stores before the end of the year. For now, you can fill your growler for $30 or less. New growlers cost $7.
Email Brooke Jackson-Glidden brookejg@statesmanjournal.com or call 503-428-3528. Follow her on Twitter @jacksonglidden, or like her Facebook page www.facebook.com/BrookeJackson-Glidden.
If you go
What: 1859 Cider Co.
Hours: 5 to 11 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, 3 p.m. to close Fridays-Saturdays and 3 to 11 p.m. Sundays
Where: 249 Liberty St. NE, Suite 140, Salem
Price range: $5 to $10
Noise level: Comfortably quiet
Contact info: (503) 584-1306, info@1859cider.com.
Website: 1859cider.com
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